‘Crating’ means placing the dog in a cage approximately the size of the dog, for a time period during the day or night.

Advocates contend that crating gives the dog a feeling of ‘material possession’, a place it can call its own. In this little home within home, the dog feels safe surrounded by familiar smells and things. Here, the dog can retreat from alarming noises or unruly kids.

It’s asserted that potty training is much easier when combined with use of a crate. Dogs, believers say, naturally avoid soiling their ‘den’ and ‘hold it’ until they’re let go to go outdoors.

Opponents argue that locking a dog in a cage hardly adequate to move in stamps down its innate need to roam. It takes away the dog’s ability to explore its surroundings at will and to absorb stimulating sights and smells. In short it can damage a dog for life.

Those against crating point out frequent examples when puppies will play in their own waste and soil themselves worse. Locking the dog away, they say, is more for the convenience of the owner and their clean floors than for the future of the dog.

There are to be sure good and bad points on both sides. Objective studies are sparse and equally divided. My feeling is that provided certain ‘rules’ and common sense are observed, there’s probably no harm, and possibly some good, to be had from crate training. Time spent in the carte must not be too long. The dog must still get plenty of quality time outside it and outdoors. Reward the dog for going to toilet outdoors i.e. do regular house traing things to.

It can also be a good way to train them to be by themselves for some time. This is well worth testing if you have to be out at times and the dog shows signs of separation anxiety. I’ve done this but used a larger crate as the objective was not to stop soiling just to get them used to a degree of separaration. This process starts by keeping them in the crate for some time while you are in the house. They know you are there but cannot come and cuddle up etc. Moving on you progress to leaving them in there and popping out for a short time to train them that it is OK to be alone for a time and that you do always come back!

Even proponents recognize that excessive lengths of forced crate time is bad for the dog. Any dog locked up in a small space is not getting needed exercise and may be restrained from eliminating for longer than is healthy. So, keep the crate time to no more than two hours maximum.

Opponents worry that crated dogs can injure themselves through a natural desire to escape or rowdiness inside the cage. Make sure that the collar won’t snag. Check to ensure there are no sharp edges on the crate, and that construction is strong enough to withstand the dog’s normal jostling and pushing on the walls. Above all, make sure it can’t tip over.

Advocates assert that crate trained animals will do better on car, train or plane trips. They’re used to the confinement and they have a familiar-smelling environment with them during a time of stress. For owners who have to take their pets on long trips, there may be some value in this view.

Critics suggest that (except in cases of permanent re-location) it’s best to leave pets at home. Apart from short trips to the grocery store or vet or to a neighbor’s house, animals fare better in familiar territory. But, if you must take them, be especially careful to do so in a well-constructed crate. Make sure no objects can fall into, not just out of, the cage.

Though the argument isn’t likely to be settled anytime soon (ever),using common sense is the best way to judge the actual net effect - good or bad - on your particular dog. Try leaving the door open after a couple of weeks of training and see whether they seek or avoid the crate. Let your dog have a say too.

And as a parting comment, if the reason you’re thinking of crating is fast house training why not give other methods a go first if you’re unsure about crating?

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Naturally, animal lovers like to have more than one dog around and often several breeds or other species. Ensuring that chairs remain upright and necks unbitten can be a real challenge. Add to the mix the neighbor’s pets or random strays who wander into your dogs territory and your furniture, not to mention your sanity, can be at real risk.

To head of such future problems the answer is to start socializing your dog as early as possible. Like children, puppies are much more accepting of strangers. They haven’t yet distinguished between friend and foe and everything is a new experience to be explored rather than feared or chased.

At first as puppies there may be a period where your vet or breeder advises it unwise to meet other dogs - maybe until they get to the end of a series of immune shots. But even if this is the case you can start with other activity. Get them used to being touched, especially between the toes, in the ears and near the eyes. Apart from impact on interaction with animals, that will make vet visits and trips to the store a lot easier.

Then when it’s OK from the health angle, as soon as possible, expose the puppy to other dogs and people.

Dogs, of course, sniff everything. When they’re about to interact with another, control them until you’re confident there won’t be chasing or violence, then let them explore the other dog, cat or creature.

If the dog shows a tendency to leap or bite, tolerate it to the point someone is going to get injured. It’s normal for dogs to rough house, knock one another over and even lightly bite legs and necks. Stay close and be prepared to snatch them away, if necessary. Leather gloves may be useful during the initial experiments.

If they continually bark, distract them with a treat, a toy or a sharp command. If they refuse to cease pulling or barking after several attempts at control, try another day. What works will vary widely depending on the individual dog and some will simply never tolerate others. You’ll discover what’s more and less effective as you observe their interactions over time.

It may be necessary to put the dog on it’s back, then hold it down with a firm hand on the chest. In harder cases a bark or shout in the dog’s face is useful. Yes, you will look like a lunatic to others, but this technique is even employed by the Monks of New Skeet. The brothers of this upper New York State religious order are world respected German Shepherd Alsatian raising experts.

Rescued or animal shelter dogs can require extra patience when socializing. These animals have often been abused by people or injured by other dogs. Those experiences naturally often lead to aggression or fear. Remarkable transformations have been seen even in these dogs, though. After repeated exposure they often learn to at least tolerate other people and pets.

Start early, expose for short intervals leading to longer ones, repeat as needed. In every case, be prepared to physically and mentally control the dog.

On a personal note I’ve found that dog parks, if you have one nearby are great places for dog socializing. If you have one check it out. Be sure to find out what the rules and etiquete first are as these vary. Once that’d done make the most of the park, they really are excellent places, especially for single dog families where it can otherwise be hard to meet and play with other dogs.

Considered by many as an unnecessary expense; until pet owners realize that those trips to the vet can be very expensive! With everything around us increasing in cost, it is not surprising that vet fees have also risen as well; this has lead to an increase in pet insurance premiums.

If rising costs to protect your pet are not enough to convince you, there are others to consider. The problem is that domestic animals are often more liable to be involved in an accident or become sick; when this happens, the cost of treatment may even cause financial strain.

There may come a time when you have to consider the cost of medical treatment; obviously this is something you would prefer to avoid especially if it is based on cost.

This situation happened to a friend a couple of years ago when he had to spend one thousand dollars to save his dog; the agony of making a decision like that is something he won’t ever repeat - he now has good insurance. Medical science cannot cure everything and pets are vulnerable too; if they do not survive despite the vets best attempts, the bill for treatment still has to be paid and if you have to pay it in full that will make the pain of losing your faithful pet even worse.

The average person does not always consider the costs involved with owning a pet; this is even more relevant if you are experiencing financial difficulties. You may have other pressing financial commitments to attend too so raising further capital can sometimes be a problem.

Financial difficulties are the number one reason why pets do not receive proper attention; owners with pet insurance do not have these concerns because they have whatever treatment they need. The choice is yours, large vet bills or a pet healthcare insurance policy; for around 40 dollars (or Less) per month cost of medical care is assured.

Some insurance providers can arrange pet healthcare policies to meet certain needs; possibly to meet certain financial requirements. If you are a pet owner then perhaps this article has given you something to think about; perhaps the information supplied here has made things are a little clearer now and you won’t delay further.

PS - My own recent story - My Border Terrier Gunnar got bad flu this winter past. After a mere day he was badly dehydrated and couldn’t keep even water down. Basically he would have died in 1-2 days without proper vet treatment with a drip and pro care. This he duly got and came home just fine again. The cost - $2000. The insurance company paid $1800 of that. Oh boy am I glad we had dog insurance!

First the dogmust be doing the ’sit’ command with no problems. This gets the dog’s attention and shows the proper direction for the dog’s rear. It works amazingly well.

With the dog sitting I thrust a hand in the dog’s direction palm first and fingers raised giving the voice command ’stay!’. Not yelling, just firm over other noise. Hand movements should be precise and unique to a particular command.

Take one step back. The dog will tend to follow, so repeat the hand gestures for sit and stay. If the dog fails take a treat or toy and move it over the dog’s head and slightly back of the eyes and still visible to force the chin up. If the dog rotates repeat until you get it right then praise lavishly. Now try again.

Once the dog remains still after 1 step, take 2. Then 4, then 8. The further away you are the harder it is as the dog naturally wants to follow the leader.

One trick is to leash the dog on a collar and long leash. Wrap around a tree or post a few feet behind the dog and hold it as you face the dog. As the steps forward, tug the rope, voice command and hand gesture. Don’t pull to unbalance the dog just to restrain. A partner can be used instead of a tree, but dogs can become confused about whom to obey.

Some dogs may lie down especially as you back away. You may have to train an ‘up’-’sit’ combination before mastering ’stay’. Breeds and individuals will vary in how long it takes them to consistently obey, but almost all get it eventually.

After the stay has lasted a few seconds, issue ‘come’ with a unique tone and hand gesture. Command gestures should be unique and reserved for specific behaviors.

When the dog comes, praise lavishly and repeat. Make the stay last longer as the dog learns. When you can go into the house and the dog stays you’re all the way there - Just don’t forget to release him after a minute!

When a dog sits he’s more attentive, making it easier to follow commands.

As important is what he is not doing! In a sit dogs can’t chase cats, knock over furniture, run into the street.

Difficulty training ’sit’ varies by breed, individual and training style. Fortunately, almost every dog can learn ’sit’ quickly.

First, take advantage of the dog’s spontaneous behavior. Watch and catch them in the middle of sitting and say ’sit’ and gesture. That way a dog associates the behavior with the command. Associate a unique hand signal and tone with the command. Praise the dog lavishly. Hold off on food treats until you really need them.

At first the dog will have no idea why you’re so happy. But dogs tend to be happy when the alpha is, and upset when he is. With repetition comes understanding.

To command sit, stand and face the dog then make the command. Wait for the response. Some will get it fast, some will take ten or more or won’t get it without further prompting. Now bring out other techniques.

With a treat or toy, face the dog and place it above his head and slightly behind the forehead, but still visible. When you have his attention move the treat slowly back toward the tail.

If the dog backs up do the technique near the couch or a fence where he has nowhere to go. When the dog starts to sit, give the command and signal. At completion praise lavishly and reward.

As a last resort, for the stubborn or slow learner, give the command and at the same time push gently on the back near the tail as you lift his chin. Praise and reward anyway, even though you had to ‘force’ the sit. Take special care with young hips - don’t force a completely uncooperative dog this way.

Repetition, consistency (reward only for the proper action), and enthusiasm will quickly lead to learning the ’sit’. Don’t be harsh, but don’t give up easily either. And never let him train you.

It also has practical benefits. When a dog is ‘down’ it can’t knock over furniture or children. It also leads to behaviors like ‘rollover’ and ‘crawl’.

Fortunately,”Down” is usually easy to train. To start take advantage of spontaneous behavior. Wait for a movement from standing or sitting to down. When you see it give a unique voice command and hand gesture pair. Every behavior should be associated with a unique hand gesture that you don’t otherwise use.

When the behavior is complete, praise lavishly. At first, the dog will have no idea why it’s being praised but it doesn’t matter as with repetition the behavior will follow the command.

Most dogs won’t go own the first few times. Be patient, clear and consistent. Minimize noise and movement distractions during the training session. Try to be away from other voices.

Encourage by taking a treat or toy. “Site” the dog then move the treat to the ground just in front of the nose.

After several repetitions try just using a ‘waving down’ hand movement, palm toward the floor or ground. Never reward until the behavior is complete - Also don’t become tense or angry after failure.

For the slow learner or assertive dog, it may be necessary to use a collar and short leash - two to four feet is best - ‘Sit’  the dog and kneel down facing him.

Make the hand gesture, issue the voice command and move a treat or toy from the dog’s chin to the ground while pulling gently on the leash. The goal is to encourage, not punish.

In really hard cases, kneel nd put the leash loop under one foot and slide it under the knee of the opposite leg, facing at a slight angle to the dog. Pull the leash loop with your foot, sliding it over your leg. Simultaneously, gently take both the dog’s forelegs and pull toward you, issuing the voice command.

When the dog is in position, praise lavishly even though you executed the movement not the dog. You want the dog to associate the position with good feelings - his and yours.

Patience and commitment is key to training any behavior.

Dogs naturally want to explore, to sniff everything, dig and snatch small objects. So when training minimize distractions by being as alone and far from interference and “things” as possible e.g., A clear backyard or large clean room is best.

Take advantage of spontaneous behavior when the dog heads toward you and execute a voice-command/hand gesture pair that’s unique for this behavior. Choose a gesture and word that you wouldn’t normally use outside training.

Start by facing the dog, putting it in a sit. Execute the ’stay!’ command, then back away a step or two. Issue the hand-gesture and voice command. Praise lavishly for the correct behavior, but never reward ‘partial’ or incorrect ones.

Repeat, stepping further away. If the the dog comes too soon, put it in a sit/stay and try again. If the dog won’t come encourage with a treat or toy.

For slow learners or reluctant, leash and collar training can be a useful. Put the dog in a sit/stay and back off a few feet reeling out the slack leash. If the dog refuses give a gentle but clear tug while doing the voice command and hand gesture.

For the dog who comes to readily, get a long leash or rope and wrap around a tree or post. As the dog lifts off too early tug it and do a ’stay’ command. A partner can help but the downside is the dog will more readily become confused about whom to obey. Focus on a single person is always more efficient.

Patience and consistency are essential. Dogs don’t spontaneously understand the usefulness of ‘come’ or any other human-induced behavior. Speaking harshly when the dog makes mistakes or is headstrong is typically counter-productive. Establish alpha status by firmness of voice, body posture and willingness to wait for compliance. Physical restraint or leading is less useful.

Most dogs quickly prove themselves eager to please and responsive to praise following the correct behavior. Just make sure they’re the ones ‘coming’, not you. If necessary, prove that you’re the stubborn one.

A good way to deal with this type of dog is to remove the need. Kneel and interact with the dog at its level. Let it explore safely while guarding against over assertiveness. Very rarely will a dog bite its owner this way, especially if the human is the the ‘alpha’ (pack leader).

If you’ve recently adopted an older dog, take more care when using this technique. Put a collar on the dog and keep a thumb inserted under it behind the dog’s neck ready to jerk sideways.

Sideways is preferable to back or up as while dogs neck muscles are strong their throats can be easily bruised. Sideways jerks protect you both and teach - not punish - the dog.

Off-leash training is another way. Wear tough pants and have the dog stand in front of you. Training a ’sit’ is a good defense against jumping. But as jumping usually follows standing or running start the exercise with the dog standing.

Watch for the body tension that precedes jumping. When you see it order a ’sit’. If the dog jumps lift your leg slightly and bump the dog’s chest with your knee or thigh. Simultaneously, push a palm near the dog’s face away from you and give a sharp command: ‘off!’. (’Down’ is a separate behavior)

The raised knee helps to keep the dog off and puts it off balance. The hand near the face obscures its vision and discourages a repeat jump. Working with a partner can be very useful with this approach.

Positive reinforcement techniques can be used, too. With a treat or toy in one hand hold out the treat or toy above and slightly behind the dog’s head as it jumps. This distracts the dog and puts it slightly off balance. It also encourages a sit when the impulse was to jump.

Repetition and consistency are, as with any training essential. Be patient, firm, never angry. With time, most dogs will suppress this natural behavior unless they receive permission to jump.

Dogs who pee in other peoples houses (it happened to me)

Dogs who run off and won’t come back. Big dogs who jump at little ones as if they want to kill and eat them for breakfast (and maybe they do)

Small fearful dogs who howl, bark and go crazy at anything.

And of course dogs that jump up at you - or worse strangers and worse still stranger children.

Or worst of all dogs who bite or shall we say “nibble” allsorts of things - at best your shoes. At worst other people . and that can mean death for the dog in some situations.

Just about every dog owner truly wants to train their dog well. But a nearly equal number will underestimate the time, skill and elbow grease it takes to do it as it needs to be done - Especially if they are a new dog owner and have bought a high energy breed when they should have gone for a lower energy submissive type. The result is often a common catalogue of errors that can be, with more or less effort, headed off before they begin.

Lets get one thing carved in stone right away - Dogs are not hairy fluffy kids. We can wsh it were so but it’s not and never will be! Though the average grown dog has a mental development someplace approximately on the level of a human two year old, there are more deviations than there are similarities. Dogs can be amazing at understanding spoken communication. But they don’t reason out or get context the way humans do. They don’t associate cause and effect in the same way.

As a result, it can be frustrating to repeat the same command over and over, only to have the dog apparently ignore you. Most times, they are not ignoring the command as much as failing to understand it. It seems it should be obvious - they’ve done the action with success many times before - but today they are just ‘being obstinate’.

Some dogs likely are what would, in humans, be called obstinate. But they can be easily distracted, or fail to associate today’s case of ‘come’ with yesterday’s action and subsequent reward. There are alternate explanations for their behavior.

Patience is the number one required quality, therefore. You have to be geared up to repeat the same order, day in and day out, and occasionally not get the same outcome. Many dogs take two years to learn anything beyond the easiest basics to the point that it consistently sticks.

Part of that patience means keeping your temper when you would like to lash out physically. It’s easy to use physical punishment as the first route of correcting a dog’s behavior. But that’s reserved in the wild for only the most severe circumstances. So, the dog hasn’t evolved to understand why you’re hitting them. It instills fear, not trust. Just dont EVER do it. It’s totally counter-productive and won’t help anyway.

Dogs, like humans, much more readily follow those they trust than those they fear. The latter they do only when they have no choice. But dogs make choices very differently from people. They will usually just endure the punishment without learning anything. Physical punishment just isn’t an effective training technique.

So, here’s how NOT to train your dog:

- Forget that your dog has a nature unlike yours. Talk to them like they were a human child. Call them and act to them like “my baby” ahh my little soldier etc. Would mummys little man like a sweetie? STOP - It’s a dog - Do wild dogs treat each other like that? No they don’t. So stop acting against nature and learn to treat your dog like wild dog pack leader treats pack.

- Believe that the dog can associate consequences across time and conditions, then draw the same conclusion you would. Except that is - ironically - bad lessons. Dogs learn to associate bad things very well which is a fast route to creating a fearful and dangerous dog.

- Get impatient and frustrated when they don’t behave as you want them to. Punish them for not behaving the way you want. As with above, impatience and punishment create fear . Fear creates aggression and/or neurotic behavior.

Follow those futile techniques and you’ll harvest the pay back of a neurotic dog and you will be an unhappy owner. But if these are not the results you desire, be prepared to change YOUR behavior, before you try to alter the dog’s.